Friday, September 27, 2019

September 27, 2019

Now on our 4th day in Umbria, we decide to spend some time in Tuscany, in particular the small hilltop village of Monterchi, seen here in the distance.  And Arezzo, a much larger, well-known Tuscan town.

(photo courtesy Google Streetview)


Monterchi was badly damaged by earthquakes in the 1300s and in 1917 so only a small part of the original fortifications remain.  But it is small, not-touristy at all, and we really enjoyed it.

Tuscan hills in all directions...












In the small piazza at the top, we notice a white plaque with a large poppy beneath, on the ancient fortress wall...



honouring two officers who died nearby on July 23, 1944...heroically saving their comrades.  The plaque doesn't tell the whole story...both were severely injured by a mine explosion, Lt. Young lost most of his two legs, while Sowar Ditto Ram lost both legs, yet they both crawled through the minefield to attend to their comrades' injuries and helped save their lives.  Both men died shortly after, Ram still on the battlefield.




At the fortress at the very top....another very nice view!



The gateway was rebuilt after the 1917 earthquake..from there we discover the Via de Medici...












We decided to visit Monterchi simply because it was on the way to Arezzo, yet it turned out to be one of the most enjoyable places we saw.  We didn't stay long since it's not very big, but it really is one of those hidden gems that we hope to find on our travels.  Very charming, quiet, historic of course, with great views of the surrounding Tuscan hills.

Onto Arezzo...a walled city in eastern Tuscany...

(photo courtesy Google Streetview)


where we are greeted by the ringing of church bells - not an unusual sound in Italy!





The Grand Duke of Tuscany has overseen the city since 1594...


..from the steps of Arezzo Cathedral...the portal on the right behind the Grand Duke is from the 14th century while the facade was rebuilt in the early 1900s....


The interior is impressive...starting with the size of the door....



..and colourful frescoes on the entire ceiling...






several altars in alcoves....




the very ornate main altar...



Plenty of stained glass windows...









and highlighted by Piero della Francesca's fresco of Mary Magdalene...completed in the 1450s...



then it was off to a delightful lunch....no, that's not it...



this is it...at the Cafe Dei Costanti...with prosecco, insalata Gabriella for the lady (she's the one on the right...)...pizza margherita for the guy in the red shoes...





The Caffe dei Costanti is the oldest restaurant in Arezzo, going back to 1804....it's a classy-looking place with plenty of brass and marble....


and coincidentally, Canada was playing Italy in the Rugby World Cup...the score didn't get any better for the guys in red...


time to walk around and enjoy some Arezzo architecture....



Beautiful arches at the back of the Cathedral...wait what's that on the weathervane at the top???


huh??? Longjohns???  well we did see plenty of hanging laundry around Italy...



this is Arezzo's famous Piazza Grande...


made famous by the 1999 Academy Award winning "Life is Beautiful"...the bicycle scene was filmed on the far right of the plaza here...and another scene outside the Caffe di Costanti where we had lunch...

(photos courtesy Youtube)








And we end the day with some Chianti, formaggio pecorino, and salame...



with grapes from the farmhouse orchard, wine from the nearby town of Orvieto, and bread...



all very much enjoyed on our patio....


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After 6 days in Ireland and 12 days in Italy, it's time to head home, via Dublin.  Arrivederci, Bologna... Over the Italian Alps....