Thursday, September 19, 2019

September 19, 2019

It's another warm sunny day in Ireland so we are off on an adventurous loop, starting in Waterford, the oldest city in Ireland, founded by the Vikings in 914 A.D.



Some of the original walls remain, highlighted by Reginald's Tower, built in 1003, with one remaining Viking who got left behind it seems.  Probably had one too many Guinness and missed the last boat back to Oslo.



Says here ol' Reggie was a Dane, not a Norse.  Good 'ol Strongbow made his presence here felt here too, enjoying a cider or two while he was at it, I'm sure.  I think he got married nearby, hopefully sober at the time.




So good when history - and important historical names - come to life...

1394:  Richard II
1568:  Elizabeth I
1570:  Henry VIII and a Venice connection, where we would be headed soon
1650:  Cromwell, who left behind a cannonball lodged in the wall of the tower






The Green for Catholic Irish
The Orange for Protestant Irish (supporters of William of Orange)
The White? - for a lasting peace and union between the two.
wonderful ideals...but we saw way way more football (soccer) team flags than Irish flags...



The remains of Blackfriars' Abbey, from the mid-13th century...




A moment of more recent history...a piece of girder from the World Trade Centre in New York, after 9/11...




Christ Church Cathedral...Reggie wasn't just a tower guy...














And a connection to Jenni's home town of Bristol, England....





Mr. Butler apparently...




with extinguisher handy in case he catches on fire...



And an important event took place here..."the marriage that took place here on August 25, 1170 marks....the birth of a new and very different Ireland.  It marked the end of the Viking age and the beginning of English involvement in Irish affairs"



Some of the earliest and most impressive of the city's walls are now inside a nearby bar & restaurant..."The Reg"...


Then we move onto the Copper Coast...but first a little break....


"The Copper Coast, in County Waterford, is named after the historic metal-mining industry and is now a tourist attraction thanks to the geological history of the area from Palaeozoic volcanism to the last ice age. In 2004 it was named a UNESCO Global Geopark. The Copper Coast stretches 10.5 miles from Kilfarrasy to Stradbally.


The region is known for its panoramic seascapes, cliffs, bays, and coves. In fact, the Copper Coast Road, the R675 stretching from Dungarvan to Tramore, is considered to be one of the most beautiful scenic drives in the world. It’s also known for it’s beautiful, clean beaches such as Clonea and Bunmahon and the village of Bunmahon, Boatstrand, Dunhill, Annestown and Fenor. Tramore, the popular seaside resort, is the best known town along the Copper Coast, but it also has a wealth of undiscovered secluded coves and beaches."
Perfect for those who choose "the road less travelled".





Sheila enjoys a "paddle"...






Easy to find your house in the dark...

and a wonderful memorial with a sense of humour...

then Kilmurrin Beach...







near Bunmahon, the ruins of an old copper mine...

We stopped for coffee and tea at the Bunmahon Visitor Centre, housed in a former church...

and then back to Kilkenny, which we found a delightful change from Dublin.


and supper at Kyteler's Inn, which has a very interesting history....Kyteler's has been an inn since 1639...
Alice Kyteler was the first recorded person to be condemned for witchcraft.  She fled to England and disappeared.  Her servant was subsequently flogged and burned at the stake.

Note the local football team flag in the window...we had seen many of those checked flags throughout the day...


And since Kilkenny is the home of Smithwicks (the 'w' is silent), it's not a Guinness this time..

After our meal, it's a thoroughly enjoyable walk through Kilkenny's streets, on a warm September evening...





Kilkenny castle at twilight...









Kilkenny was terrific, and we would return twice.  A wonderful day of exploration if a bit too long in the car, ends back at the Moonarch for, you guessed it...more of (B&B owner) Margaret's Irish coffees.
The next day would begin with a sombre visit to a nearby famine cemetery but end again in Kilkenny.

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After 6 days in Ireland and 12 days in Italy, it's time to head home, via Dublin.  Arrivederci, Bologna... Over the Italian Alps....